Through conversations with those who have lived and worked in the projects of interest, historians who have studied them, activists who have fought for their preservation, and iconoclasts who have wished them dismantled, En-Medio drops into architectural narratives of the city, long underway, to ask what possible futures lie ahead.^[1]

The fifth issue presents Restaurante Los Manantiales, the family-owned restaurant and bar designed by Félix Candela in 1957. Located in the canals of Xochimilco—the remnants of an ancient agricultural system implemented by the Aztecs - the building was designed with a flower-shaped structure that gently touches the ground at eight points. At the time of its construction in 1958, when Mexico was striving to position itself as an economic and cultural power, Los Manantiales was celebrated as an icon for technological advancement. Within the local context of Mexico City, the building has served as a popular venue for tourism, political campaign rallies, state dinners, family celebrations, and weekend gatherings. Despite this prominent history, Los Manantiales and the canals of Xochimilco have suffered a slow process of deterioration over the past four decades. Formal concerns were raised as early as 1987, when Xochimilco was inscribed into UNESCO’s World Heritage List highlighting the dangers of excessive ground-water extraction, unregulated urban development, and contamination. These problems have persisted, largely unregulated by local and federal authorities, and have generated a social, economic, and environmental crisis in the area. 

The following conversation was held in December 2017 with José Manuel González Sáinz, nephew of the original owner of the Restaurante Los Manantiales, José González González. We met to discuss the challenges of preserving the building’s delicate concrete structure, how Xochimilco has evolved over the past decades, and the most recent damages incurred as a result of the earthquake on September 19, 2017.

Restaurante Los Manantiales, conversation with José Manuel González

JM

This project emerged from my uncle’s desire to start a restaurant. In the very beginning, the Cervecería Cuauhtémoc owned a building that was formerly on this site—one made entirely of wood. My uncle, José González González, was the concession holder. On a Sunday in 1957, a spark in the restaurant’s kitchen started a fire, and the entire building burned to the ground. 

My family is originally from Spain, and at that moment in time my father was living under the dictatorship of Francisco Franco. My uncle convinced him to immigrate to Mexico under the premise of a business partnership. Together with my grandfather—my father’s father-in-law—my uncle proposed to match any investment he made towards the creation of a new restaurant. It was then that the design of this building by Félix Candela was commissioned.

Departamento del Distrito
Do you know how much the initial investment was? 

JM
It was around one million pesos, and my father received his portion from my grandfather as a loan. With this my uncle commissioned the project and also sought to buy furniture and everything necessary for the operation of a new restaurant. 

All-in-all, it was a party room to accommodate around a thousand people, in addition to all the necessary services. In 1957, when Candela was commissioned to design the project, the managers of the brewery and my uncle gave him complete creative freedom. Just four or five months later the new building was standing; it was extraordinary. And by 1958 the restaurant was in operation. After reopening, the restaurant proved to be such a good business that my dad was able to pay his debt with my grandfather way before the date they had agreed on. At that moment two waiter captains, five waiters, and six cooks worked here every day. In addition, there was a full-time four or five-element orchestra. 

DdD
Can you describe the clientele that visited the restaurant when it first opened, as well as the kind of events that took place here? 

JM
Well, this restaurant was a top-notch destination in the city. The clientele had a high socio-economic status. For example, when Fernando Casas Alemán was regent of the Departamento del Distrito Federal, he would come and eat here.^[2] At that time my uncle would even pay him visits without an appointment. Presidential candidates and other politicians made rallies here, events organized by the Weapons Factory, the Labor Ministry—all ministries, really—and the Attorney General’s Office. Truly, all kinds of events took place. That was Xochimilco! Artistic figures as important as Lola Beltrán sang here and innumerable movies were shot in the restaurant. Even the Queen of Holland came for a state dinner invited by President López Mateos.^[3] According to what I know they arrived to the site by canoe and entered from a staircase that once overlooked the canal. 

In addition, other kinds of events took place: teacher’s day celebrations; football club posadas; dance parties. In the late 50s and 60s a lot of people came to Xochimilco, even during the week. On Saturday and Sunday—not only at Los Manantiales but all around this area—events such as banquets, birthdays, and celebrations of all kinds took place. I remember that during Easter people would make a line just to sit down and drink something at the restaurant. Unfortunately, none of that is left.  

By 1998, due to the economic crisis in Mexico, the affluence of our clientele fell sharply. The Cervecería Cuauhtémoc decided to sell some of their liabilities and that is when my dad bought the property. I have an engineering degree, but in 1970 when my dad was diagnosed with heart disease I left my job to take charge of the restaurant.

DdD
As you indicated, Xochimilco has suffered a series of changes over time that are quite visible. What effect has this had on the restaurant? 

JM
To begin, our original clientele no longer comes here. They are either too old or have passed away. In addition, getting to Xochimilco nowadays is very difficult. Formerly, the Viaducto-Tlalpan highway would get you here in 15 minutes. Now it takes more than an hour. 

The city has grown and people’s recreational habits have also changed. Families used to come to Xochimilco to spend the day; now they go to the mall. With the transformation of the surroundings we have been forced to transform the use of the building. From operating as an everyday venue, the restaurant has become something more like an event hall and is only open to the public on the weekend. The people that come here now are danzón aficionados who keep the traditions of ballroom dancing alive. Some of them do show up every week. 

DdD
And the day-to-day life of Xochimilco?

JM
Unfortunately, Xochimilco has declined in many aspects. The clearest indication of this is the illegal occupation of the floating gardens by informal settlements. And, of course, with this problem comes that of water scarcity. Proof of that is the dramatic way in which water levels have decreased in the canals over the last two decades. The problem derives from the fact that informal housing settlements also occupy the surrounding hills. Rainwater never infiltrates into the ground and therefore water tables—already overexploited—are never recharged. Further, when the rain is strong torrents of water flow down from the hills, flooding the lower parts of Xochimilco and opening large holes in the ground. 

I can tell you that we are in this situation today because of the people who govern. The government - both at the local and federal level—has forgotten us. The politicians are solely concerned with getting votes. By turning a blind-eye to informal settlements in Xochimilco they maintain their base support, but at a great expense to the natural environment. 

DdD
Yes, and at the end of the day this is also connected to corruption. It damages not only the natural environment but also the city and those who live here. 

JM
It damages everything. In regards to the subject of water, in the past when designing a building in this area, one would take into account that the water table was approximately three meters below the level of the sidewalk. Nowadays, that level is much lower. How is it possible that a place like this, recognized worldwide as the “Mexican Venice”—which in itself is already laughable—has declined in this way?

DdD
The irony is that if the city made an effort to preserve the site it would be possible to generate more resources for everyone—government and local populations alike. 

JM
Many more resources! The clearest case of success in a similar situation is the recovery of the Historic Center by Slim.^[4] Why did he do it? Because authorities were incapable of doing it themselves. Apart from those rare instances, every three years political candidates from the delegation come and tell us, “This time we will really save the canals, the tourism, this and that!” and nothing ever happens. Their presence, instead of making things easier, makes life more difficult. Do you know how much property tax we pay here? Twenty-thousand pesos every other month. And this in a context where, for obvious reasons, nobody else pays a single peso. What support does paying that money—that someone undoubtedly pockets—give this business? Absolutely nothing

DdD
The reality is that no matter how hard you work to preserve a building like this one, without government support it is nearly impossible to do so. 

JM
Yes, and instead of support they have actually damaged the building. The most drastic modification by their hands took place in 2003. The Public Works Department of the delegation, without any license, remodeled the nearby Nativitas dock. At this time, they demolished the external staircase that connected the restaurant with this dock and the canal below. In its place they started to build a retaining wall but it was never completed. Without the staircase, the restaurant lost its principle relationship to the immediate landscape. INAH tried to intervene so that the delegation would restore the damage inflicted on the building, to rebuild the staircase they had demolished, but nothing came of it.^[5] Look, here’s an early photo (Fig. Upper left). See how the building used to be reflected in the water? 

DdD
Aside from this, have there been other modifications to the building from what was originally designed and constructed by Candela?

JM
Yes, the mosaic mural, which originally guided visitors from the canal into the restaurant was relocated next to the parking area. It now separates the street entrance from the back terrace. The service area, in addition, was formerly elsewhere. When I renovated the building, for which I asked INAH  for permission, I decided to leave the parking lot facing the street and concentrated the service area - bar, kitchen, storage space, and offices—in a volume next to it.

DdD
You have invested a significant amount of energy and resources into the property over the years which, I can imagine, has not always been easy given the dynamic you describe with the authorities and surrounding neighborhood. What does it mean, both financially and logistically, to maintain Los Manantiales?

JM
Here’s one example: To paint the restaurant—just the dining salon—which in plan is 900 m2 turns into 2,300 m2 when you consider the entire surface area of the concrete shell. The same goes for the exterior waterproofing. Imagine also what it means to light such an ample space. 

I would like to repair various things: fix the entrance gate, install prefabricated concrete pavement, paint the building, etc. I’m currently looking for institutions or people who can donate material for all of this.

DdD
And beyond basic upkeep, what about the actual preservation of the architecture? Candela’s work is recognized, among other things, for the slenderness of his canopies. What does it entail to preserve the concrete shell?

JM
The main issue is that of waterproofing. Back when the building was first built this was done with a base of asphalt and sand. Now the technique is different - most waterproofing products are paint-like. In this case, we don’t waterproof the entire building at once. What we do is detect areas with cracks on the top surface of the canopy and cover those first. To do this we seal them by injecting a liquid waterproofing agent, primarily in areas where water tends to naturally stagnate. I also can’t meddle with Candela’s work and say: “Pour more cement here so water flows away.” No, no.

DdD
Did the building suffer major damage after our last earthquake in September?^[6]

JM
Yes, the geometry of the main canopy was compromised. There are four parabolic arches that work together to transmit the structural load of the canopy down to the foundations. One of these foundation points has sunk 46 centimeters at one side. Because of this, a section of an arch cracked and the others are also deforming. The fact that a structure that works through form loses precisely that—its form—puts the building in danger. Apart from this, the earthquake caused many windows to break and a crack opened at the center of the dance floor. Part of the finishing layer separated and was lifted up. I am now waiting for experts to arrive because I don’t want to fix all of this without having their opinion. The greater problem is that the earthquake revealed that the building has been sinking for a long time—at least for 14 years since the staircase which worked as its natural heal was demolished. Without this foundational support, and with water levels in the canal at least three meters lower than normal, it is natural for the building to sink. 

DdD
With such issues, I wonder if you have considered selling the property. Is there an ideal future or use that you envision for the building?  

JM
To be honest, I don’t care so much about the use; one has to adapt to the present moment. What I would like is for someone to pay me a safe rent. For example, for a company like Coppel to come and put a bank here, or a supermarket like Superama. Half of it would be for my mom and my siblings, and the other half for me. I had thought of putting an Oxxo outside by the parking area. However, when I informed the delegation they wanted half of the profits. It’s incredible. It’s as if they prefer having informal vendors on the streets, who don’t pay taxes, over official businesses.

And, if I have to sell it, I’ll sell it. What’s needed then? Someone who understands the historic value of this site. Someone who is willing to care for the building even if that person doesn’t make a profit, just for the sole purpose of having among their properties an architectural masterpiece. Otherwise, what are we discussing? It’s going to dry up even more, that damn canal.